List of diseases that are found in a tropical fish aquarium. We also sell live tropical fish on our site and provide fish disease information and how to cure them.

 

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The most important entity one can control to maintain the health of tropical pet fish is the quality of the water in the aquarium. Tropical fish diseases often start out as an environmental factor that weaken the fish, a condition that’s susceptible to disease. The environment in the aquarium should be as close as possible to the environment that the fish would experience in the wild. Each species of fish has its own set of conditions in which they can thrive. If these conditions are not met, they may get sickly and possibly die. When deciding on types of fish to keep in the aquarium, it is best to get fish that require the same type of water quality. Keeping live bearers that require a higher pH or alkaline water and together with ones that lay eggs which require a lower pH or acid water, will make for an unmanageable combination. Whether or not pet fish and plants, will thrive and prosper shall depend on the environment provided them.

In nature, there is no such thing as pure water. All water in nature has dissolved gases and dissolved solids in it. The water quality is a function of the materials it comes in contact with. The qualities of which the water posesses are the entities of the environment that it comes from. In natural areas that are high in peat, rainwater falls and it percolates through the peat that creates water typically low in pH and low in dissolved solids. When rainwater falls in areas that are high in limestone, the resulting water is high in pH and high in dissolved solids. Different species of fish thrive in these different types of water. The quality of water in the aquarium must replicate that found in the natural environment for the health and well being of the pet fish and plants.

Tap water is the usual source of water for the aquarium and since it has to be of a good natural based quality for human consumption, it is usually fine for use in the aquarium. It must be however, conditioned to meet the needs of the pet fish species. First, it must be de-chlorinated because municipal water plants add chlorine or chloramines’ to the water to disinfect it. This chlorine can be removed by chemical means using API's (Aquarium Phamaceutical Incorporated) Stress Coat.  This product removes chlorine and chloramine instantly, as well as replaces the natural slime coating that fish need.  API's Tap Water Conditioner instantly removes chlorine and chloramines requiring only one drop per gallon of water to be de-chlorinated.  Both products detoxify heavy metals in the tap water. The water can also, be de-chlorinated by letting stand for two or three days in an open container that’s preferably given aeration. The chlorine level can be tested using a chlorine test kit available at most pet stores. Fish with chlorine poisoning appear to be distressed and swim with clamped fins in a darting motion as if they are irritated by the chlorine. They may rub on objects in the aquarium or may gulp air at the surface. Treatment should be immediate.

The acidity or alkalinity of the aquarium water and of change water should be adjusted to the needs of the specific fish’s needs that are being kept. Acidity and alkalinity are measured on a scale of 0-14 and are represented by pH values. A pH of 0 is extremely acidic, a pH of 14 is extremely alkaline and a pH of 7 is neutral. A pH below 7 is acidic and pH above 7 is alkaline. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale in that a pH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than a pH of 7. A pH of 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 7. A pH of 4 is 10,000 times more acidic than a pH of 8. Changes in pH should be made in small increments or, it will adversely affect the pet fish. The pH is easily measured with API's Deluxe pH Test Kit.  The kit coontains pH-Up and pH-Down for adjusting the water to the correct pH.  All the fish in the tank will be affected. All makeup water and change water should have the pH adjusted to match the pH in the aquarium from which they came or any addition of the new water can shock the fish and throw the aquarium water out of pH balance. Fish that have experienced pH shock appear lethargic and distressed enough to lie at the bottom of the tank. They may hide behind plants or hang around the corners of the aquarium. The pH must be tested at least, weekly to make sure the proper pH is being maintained. A changed size of pH can be caused by overfeeding or overpopulating the aquarium.. Decaying organic matter must be removed because in all, these cause ammonia to be generated that slowly raise the pH. The pH levels can be raised or lowered but, slowly by using the API's pH-Up or pH-Down. Also, the pH can be lowered by filtering the aquarium water through peat. The pH can be raised by using pure sodium bicarbonate that’s available at most pet stores. Make sure to follow the instructions on the package that the solution(s) came in.

Water dissolves solid substances that it comes in contact with. Determining if water is hard or soft depends on the amount of minerals that are dissolved into the solution water. If the amount of dissolved solids is high, the water is hard. If the amount of dissolved solids is low, the water is soft. Hardness or softness of the water can be measured by using a test kit available from the pet store. Different fish require different hardness of water. Research should be done to determine the specific degree of hardness that will make your pet fish types happy. The hardness of water is expressed on a dH (degree of Hardness) scale beginning at 0 which has no dissolved solids. Zero to 4 degrees dH is very soft water, 5-8 degrees dH is soft water, 9-12 degrees dH is medium hard water and 13 degrees and up dH is very hard water. Tap water in different areas of the country have different hardness. They must be tested to determine their hardness and then, adjusted to fit the needs of the fish. Aquarium water can be made more soft by an addition of distilled water, rainwater, water obtained from reverse osmosis or from a water softener containing an ion exchange resin. Water can be made harder by addition of pure alabaster gypsum available at most per stores. Carefully follow all instructions that came with the container or package purchased. Water hardness is not only important for the well being of the pet fish but, it plays an important role in the breeding of fish. Some fish will not reproduce in hard water but, when the water is softened, the mimicking of the dilution of rain water will often allow them to readily breed. Once again, it is good to know the behavioral pattern of the pet fish and to match those environmental conditions. Being well aware of the pet fish behavioral patterns, symptoms of ailments, character when fed and of their environments appearance, pH (etc.) should increase the fun of successful accomplishments in having been an excellent caregiver. Awareness in the raising of pet fish can result in a pride for showing off those truly healthy survivors, all yours from a talent that’s greatly admirable.

Solids are not only dissolved in the water but, also gases. Typically these gases are oxygen, carbon dioxide, and ammonia. The oxygen cycle is very important for the health of the aquarium. This is where plant life absorbs carbon dioxide released from the respiration of fish. Then, in turn the plants release oxygen which is used by the pet fish. Live plants are necessary in the aquarium for this process to occur. Plastic plants will not work, they are just ornamental. Carbon dioxide can be measured in the aquarium by use of a carbon dioxide test kit that most pet stores carry. Carbon dioxide can build up in an aquarium and is a serious threat to the fish. They will appear sluggish and may be at the surface of the tank or at an angle with gulping gestures for air. Most of the fish in the tank will be affected. Overpopulation of the tank is usually responsible for this, as the fish’s total respiration of carbon dioxide overcomes the ability of the plants to utilize it. Increase the aeration in the tank to diffuse out the carbon dioxide. Do a large water change (50%) to dilute the carbon dioxide present. Make sure all filter equipment is operating properly and that a return water from outside filters is splashing back into the aquarium to increase the surface area on the top of the tank of promoting the exchange of carbon dioxide with oxygen. Reduce the number of pet fish in the tank if overpopulation be at question and increase the amount of plant life to achieve a better carbon dioxide/oxygen balance. Lack of oxygen in the tank is also, due to overpopulating the tank. Check to see that the filter is working properly and that the return flow is splashing back into the tank. This causes turbulence on the surface of the tank, increasing its surface area for better exchange with oxygen and with the air. An air stone should always be used in the aquarium. It’s tiny bubbles, not only diffuse oxygen into the aquarium water but, cause turbulence on the surface of the water for better oxygen exchange with the air. It helps move the water which is beneficial to the fish. There is rarely still stagnant water in nature. Fish that are oxygen deprived will be normally at the surface of the tank positioned at an angle gulping for air. Almost all the fish in the tank will be affected. They will swim sluggishly with a slow wagging motion. They will have clamped fins and their overall appearance will seem distressed. Do not overfeed or allow dead organic material to build up in the aquarium. These materials begin to decay producing excess ammonia in the tank and that robs oxygen from the water. Feeding should be kept to a minimum and all organic matter; dead plants or dead fish need be removed as soon as possible before they pollute the water. All suspended particulate matter in the water should be filtered.

Dissolved ammonia in the water also, comes from the urine and feces of fish. The ecosystem for removing ammonia from the water is called the nitrogen cycle. The ammonia produced in the tank by fish and decaying debris is oxygenated to nitrites by friendly bacteria on the filter media or on the substrate (gravel) on the aquarium bed. On under gravel systems the gravel acts as the filter media and gives a large area for the bacteria to grow on. Other bacteria further reduce the nitrites to the much less harmful nitrates. The nitrates are then, absorbed by the plant life to produce sugars for growth. This growth is in the form of proteins which the fish eat thus, completing the cycle. Ammonia is a very toxic substance to fish and must be monitored closely, at least weekly.

At a level of 0.5 to 1-PPM (part per million), fish will look stressed out. They will be inactive and swim with clamped fins. Their gills will be pumping rapidly. At 2 to 3 PPM (Parts Per Million), the fish will have outbreaks of bacterial infections and begin to die. At 4 to 5 PPM there is a death rate of up to 50% of the population. At 6 to 7 PPM there is an increase in the death rate up to the total population of the tank. The actions to take are; check to make sure there is adequate aeration and that all the biological filters are working properly plus, immediately remove any excess food or biological waste. Do an immediate 50% water change. This will cut in half the concentration of ammonia. Add 1 tsp. of non-iodized salt per gallon of tank volume to the aquarium water. This will help displace the ammonia from the water. NOTE: Up to 2 ¾ teaspoons of salt may be added per gallon of water to help relieve the stress on the pet fish due to their natural osmotic action and reduce the nitrite level. Longer term, it should be evaluated as to whether the tank is overpopulated and if there is adequate live plant growth in the tank to carry out the nitrogen cycle. If necessary, multiple water changes can be made in subsequent days to continue to lower the ammonia level toward acceptable amounts.

 

 

 

 

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