No matter how careful a person is to maintain the quality of water in the aquarium environment, toxic substances can build up in the water and make it necessary for doing a water change. A water change of 25% to 50% is recommended at least, on a monthly basis. If water conditions have deteriorated, it may be necessary to do an immediate water change of say, 50% followed by several days of 25% water change and, until the pollutant level that’s affecting the water quality is reduced to an acceptable level. If water changes are not done this consistently, the pollutant level affects the water quality that further reduces acceptable levels. If water changes are not done and pollutant levels rise, it causes the water quality deterioration and the once healthy pet fish will weaken to a prime target for a myriad of diseases which otherwise, an of healthy antibodies would most naturally have warded them off. Water changes are more necessary on new aquarium set ups than, in well established aquariums because, the biological nitrogen cycle has not had the chance to function properly. Water plants that are not well enough established, do not remove nitrates from the water and a newly established aquarium does not have a biological filter with sufficient colonies of bacteria yet, in order to break down the ammonia into nitrites and then, into nitrates. The same problem arises when, the biological filter is changed and there is a period of time until the colonies on the filter are built back up from where the biological nitrogen cycle is broken. These two conditions can be greatly helped, by adding API’s* Biochemist Zorob, which will add massive colonies of nitrifying bacteria to the aquarium filtration system. This gives the filter a jump start and makes it biologically active and efficient much sooner.

When the waste water has been removed from the aquarium, an equal amount of water should be put into a bucket. If using tap water, adjust the temperature to be the same as the aquarium water to prevent thermal shock to the pet fish and other live species. This is done by running water over an aquarium thermometer and adjusting it, with the hot/cold handles until the correct temperature is achieved. The water then, needs to be de-chlorinated by using API’s Stress Coat, a Tap Water Conditioner, or an Ammo Lock. It is recommended that API’s Sparkling Clear be added to clear up the water that’s disturbed and when the change water is added to the aquarium. The pH of the change water should be checked using API’s Deluxe pH Test Kit. The pH of the change water will need to be adjusted using API’s pH up or pH down solutions and until, the pH of that change water is the same as the aquariums and for preventing pH shock to the pet fish. It is recommended that one teaspoon of API’s Aquarium Salt be added per gallon of change water. This improves healthy gill function plus, reduces both, stress and loss of electrolytes from the pet fish. It can also, reduce the harmful effects of nitrite on the pet fish and other live species. If more of the nitrite needs to be removed or tied-up, as much as 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of change water can be used. When the change water has been properly mixed/dissolved, a person must slowly add it to the aquarium. It should be noted that a 50% water change lowers all contaminants concentration by a quarter.

* Aquarium Pharmaceutical Incorporated (API).

 

Related Topics:  Aquarium Diseases, Aquarium Algae, more details at our Live Tropical Fish web site.

 

 

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